This is an odd one, a bit over my head, but it does have the best men’s cologne ad I’ve ever seen. She is quite intelligent and her analysis of the rise of social networks, esp. TikTok, and the popularity of perfumes is fascinating.
The evolution of Chanel No. 5 over the past 100 years
That’s a fascinating question about one of the world’s most iconic perfumes! While Chanel has gone to great lengths to maintain the original spirit of No. 5, the formulation has undergone subtle, but significant, changes over the decades due to a few key factors.1
Here is a breakdown of how the formulation has evolved:
1. Ingredient Regulation and Replacement
-
Banned/Restricted Ingredients: The most major changes are driven by safety regulations, primarily from organizations like the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the European Union.
-
Natural Musks: Ingredients like natural musk and civet, originally used in the formula’s base, have been restricted or replaced due to ethical, environmental, and safety concerns.2 They are now substituted with synthetic musks like musk ketone (though some of these have also been restricted over time).3
-
Oakmoss/Treemoss: These classic fixatives, which add an earthy, long-lasting base, have faced severe restrictions due to their potential as allergens.4 This has necessitated their replacement with synthetic or modified versions in the modern formula, impacting the final dry-down.
-
Bergamot and Furocoumarins: Certain natural extracts, like bergamot, had compounds (furocoumarins) that could cause dark spots on the skin when exposed to the sun.5 These are now either stripped out or replaced to ensure consumer safety.
-
2. Shifts in Raw Materials
-
Natural vs. Synthetic: While the original 1921 formula by Ernest Beaux was revolutionary for its groundbreaking use of synthetic aldehydes, it also contained a very high percentage of expensive natural materials like Grasse Jasmine and May Rose (Rose Centifolia).
-
Consistency and Sustainability: To ensure a consistent scent profile across all batches and to address supply chain concerns, the focus has shifted. While Chanel still owns and protects the fields in Grasse where its jasmine and rose are grown, advancements in technology mean that some ingredients, like aldehydes, are now often synthesized in laboratories to guarantee purity and uniformity.6
3. Different Concentrations and Modern Interpretations
Chanel has introduced several versions of No. 5 over the years, which are not reformulations of the original Parfum or Eau de Toilette but rather distinct, modern takes:
| Concentration / Version | Year Introduced | Key Distinction |
| No. 5 Parfum (Original) | 1921 | The purest, most concentrated, and truest to the original. |
| No. 5 Eau de Toilette | 1924 (by Ernest Beaux) | Lighter, often featuring a woodier drydown (more sandalwood). |
| No. 5 Eau de Parfum | 1986 (by Jacques Polge) | A warmer, richer reinterpretation for the modern era. |
| No. 5 Eau Première | 2007 (by Jacques Polge) | Lighter and fresher than the EDP, with ylang-ylang taking a more central, sweeter role. |
| No. 5 L’Eau | 2016 (by Olivier Polge) | The most youthful and freshest version, sparkling with sugared-citrus top notes and a brighter feel. |
Summary of the Olfactory Difference
While the brand works hard to maintain the “abstract” floral-aldehyde signature that made the original revolutionary, vintage aficionados often describe the older formulations as:
-
Deeper and more complex due to the higher levels of natural musk and oakmoss.
-
Rich and more animalic (a characteristic of the original musks and civet).
The modern Parfum and Eau de Parfum retain the heart of aldehydes, rose, and jasmine, but are slightly cleaner, less heavy, and adapted to modern regulations while striving to preserve the iconic elegance.
The use of aldehydes by perfumer Ernest Beaux in Chanel No. 5 in 1921 was the single most revolutionary element, fundamentally changing the course of modern perfumery.
💥 The Aldehyde Revolution
Prior to Chanel No. 5, most fine fragrances were designed to imitate the literal smell of a single flower (a soliflore, like a pure rose or jasmine scent). Coco Chanel, who wanted a perfume that smelled like an “abstract” woman, not a garden, challenged Ernest Beaux to create something entirely new.
1. The “Sparkle” and “Fizz” Effect ✨
-
What Aldehydes Are: Aldehydes are a class of organic compounds, often created synthetically, with a distinctive chemical structure. In perfumery, they are used to create notes that range from waxy, metallic, and clean to soapy, fatty, and citrusy.
-
The Olfactory Effect: Beaux used an unprecedented, heavy dose of aliphatic aldehydes (specifically C-10, C-11, and C-12, or 2-methylundecanal). This high concentration gave the perfume its signature, non-natural quality—often described as the “fizz of champagne,” the smell of “snow on hot iron,” or a clean, sparkling brilliance that immediately grabs attention.
-
Amplification: Aldehydes are excellent diffusers. They act like a “rocket fuel,” boosting the entire fragrance, making the natural floral heart of jasmine and May rose smell more vibrant, radiant, and expansive than ever before.
2. Creating the First Abstract Perfume
-
Moving Beyond Nature: By combining natural ingredients (like ylang-ylang, rose, and jasmine) with the newly available synthetic aldehydes, Beaux created the first true “floral-aldehyde” fragrance. This scent did not smell exactly like any known flower, but rather a complex, sophisticated, and hard-to-pinpoint aroma—it was abstract.
-
A Scent of Cleanliness: The specific aldehydes used impart a waxy, soapy, and clean character. This was radical because, historically, strong, multi-note perfumes were associated with courtesans, while respectable women wore simple floral scents. Chanel No. 5 married the luxury of expensive florals with a feeling of cleanliness and sophistication, perfectly embodying the liberated and modern woman of the 1920s.
3. The “Happy Accident” Legend
The immense quantity of aldehydes in No. 5 is often attributed to a famous legend:
Ernest Beaux’s lab assistant is said to have overdosed the aldehyde in one of the samples by mistake, accidentally adding a significantly higher concentration than intended. Coco Chanel, when presented with the options (numbered 1 through 5 and 20 through 24), chose the fifth sample, which was the one with the extra dose.
Whether the overdose was accidental or a stroke of genius, the high level of aldehydes is what sealed the perfume’s fate as a game-changer. It became the signature element that broke the traditional rules of perfumery forever.
The widespread success of Chanel No. 5 cemented the role of synthetic ingredients in fine fragrance, proving they could be used to create artful, luxurious, and long-lasting scents.
You can see a perfumer break down the components and attempt to recreate a similar formula in this video: How to make Chanel No.5 (type). This video is relevant as it provides a practical look at the complex chemical formulation, including the aldehydes, that make up a fragrance in the style of Chanel No. 5.
Leave a Reply